It is common for tourists who arrive in Heraklion for the first time and wonder how modern the city is. After all, this is the capital of Crete, the home of Europe's first civilization, and the birthplace of countless myths and legends. Newcomers tend to expect a small village with old buildings rather than the cosmopolitan busy city that occupies the same land as ercole, king Minos, minotaur and other ancient mythological figures once lived in.
The magic of Heraklion, however, is that its modern comforts exchange peacefully with its ancient treasures rather than overhanging them. The result is a vibrant city that manages to look to the future while continuing to embrace its past.
Contemporary shops, hotels and buildings may be the first things to catch the eye of visitors, but by scratching the surface of Heraklion's new veneer, the city's glorious history becomes brilliant. Massive walls built in the 1500s circle in the heart of the city as two powerful arms try to keep Heraklion from moving too far forward in the modern era. The enchanting fountains, ornate architecture and other relics of the past are also scattered throughout the city, with many of these attractions dating back centuries to the time when Venice ruled the island of Crete.
While the mixture of past and present offers a fascinating context, the true beauty of Heraklion comes from the simple reflections of everyday Greek life. Its small and unexpected surprises are the things that make the city a joy to explore - like a small church with an immaculate flower garden or a hidden courtyard where an old man sits alone and gently suffocates his bouzouki, a Greek instrument similar to The Mandolin. Busy public squares and festive taverns may attract more tourists, but experiencing Heraklion at its best is strolling along the coast at sunset or visiting the old port next to the Venetian fort at dawn and watching the fishermen carefully control their nets in the pink colour of dawn.